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PFAS on the way out, refill on the retreat – a week that forces the cosmetics industry to rethink its plans
This week in the cosmetics industry is a collision of two realities: the hard letter of EU law and a softer, but painful, market reality check. On one hand, manufacturers are facing a hard deadline to say goodbye to "forever chemicals"; on the other, the market is showing that a noble "clean beauty" mission alone doesn't guarantee survival. Let's take a look at exactly what's changing and why it's worth knowing now, before these shifts catch up with your product portfolio.
01 · Law and Regulations
PFAS are disappearing from cosmetics – the clock is ticking toward October 10
Starting October 10, 2026, a regulation restricting the use of PFAS – so-called "forever chemicals" – above a threshold of 25 ppb will take effect across the entire European Union [1]. The new limits will cover, among others, PFHxA acid, and will primarily hit skincare cosmetics and waterproof makeup products – mascaras chief among them, since PFAS compounds have until now been responsible for their longevity and resistance to water and sweat [1].
For manufacturers, this means having to overhaul their formulas in a very short window, since just over a week remains before the rules take effect. There is, however, good news: products already placed on the market before this date will not be pulled from shelves, so existing warehouse and store inventory won't suddenly become a liability [1]. That's a welcome breather for distributors and retail chains, but brands still planning autumn-winter launches or a refresh of their waterproof makeup lines need to have formulas compliant with the new 25 ppb threshold ready today.
It's also worth remembering that this is just one more step in the broader trend of phasing out PFAS from consumer products – alongside cosmetics, the regulation also covers clothing and footwear, showing that the regulator is treating the issue systemically rather than in isolation [1]. Anyone who fails to meet the new threshold risks having products pulled from the EU market entirely – a cost far more painful than reformulating a handful of SKUs before the holiday season.
02 · Market and Brands
RAW Skincare closes its doors – a warning for brands betting solely on mission
From a completely different angle, but an equally instructive story comes from the American market. RAW Skincare, the brand known for its "high-performance, plant-based skincare" tagline and refillable packaging, is closing its chapter after nearly a decade in business [2]. The decision to shut down the company was announced by its founder, Mike Indursky, who also said he plans to return with new ventures in the future – so this isn't a farewell to the industry, but rather the close of one particular chapter [2].
This story is more than just a single industry news item – it's a warning signal for anyone building a brand around the idea of sustainability and refillable packaging alone. A mission attracts media attention and loyal early-adopter customers, and it builds a distinctive image against mass-market players, but it doesn't exempt a company from the tough realities of the market: scaling production, maintaining margins, running efficient distribution, and competing with giants who are getting increasingly adept at bolting "eco" onto their lines without sacrificing cost efficiency [2].
In other words, sustainability sells as an added value, but on its own it won't keep a company afloat if business fundamentals like profitability and scale don't hold up as well as the brand's mission does.
Summary
Summary: neither regulation nor the market is offering any leniency
This week makes it clear that pressure on the cosmetics industry is coming from two directions at once – from the regulator, which is imposing hard deadlines and chemical limits, and from the market itself, which is ruthlessly testing business models, even ones built on worthy, likeable ideas. Companies that want to survive the coming months need to keep up with the letter of the law while also building genuine competitive advantage, not just a good marketing narrative.
Want to talk about how regulatory changes and market realities will affect your business? Join us at Beauty Days – Branżowe Targi Kosmetyczne, where you'll meet manufacturers, raw material suppliers, and experts on compliance with the new PFAS regulations, as well as brands seeking sustainable business models resilient to market turbulence.
Invitation
New PFAS limits and the market's reality check for clean beauty brands are just the beginning of the conversations waiting for you at Beauty Days. Meet manufacturers, raw material suppliers, and compliance experts on the new regulations, and see how other brands are handling regulatory and market pressure along the way. Reserve your spot today.
Beauty Days 2026